Reloading Components (Part 1) - Favorite Companies

Howdy folks,

[Please note: I had split this thread into two due to character limitations. Please read part 1, then part 2, as it will read more logically. At least I sure hope that it will, lol.]

I typed up version 1 of this thread yesterday. When I went back to proof it and add a few new suggestions, I noticed how many typos I had made and how many points I had forgotten to mention. So I decided I would take my time, and write up version 2. So here is the new and hopefully improved version.

If you have already read the original post, you might want to skim this one quickly to see if I have mentioned something new that will help you out.

************************************

Howdy folks,

In the past week or so I have received several private messages from members who are making the move into reloading or seriously considering this move. They have asked questions to help them better understand the correct components they need to order.

Most have also stated they have tried to find these components locally, but have had limited or no success. So I have been asked to suggest companies that I routinely deal with in ordering my components.

I decided it would be a useful thread to start for many of our members. It could be members who are about to start reloading, seriously thinking about it, or about to knock the dust off their equipment and begin to reload after years of buying their ammo loaded for them.

I surely do not consider myself an expert, just a long time reloader, who has found some companies I tend to deal with the most. But from previous responses from other long time reloaders, I know they also have other companies who tend to get their component dollars.

So after listing some general thoughts on components I will end by listing the companies I generally use. To add to this thread, I would ask other reloaders to share their favorite companies as well.

There does appear to be increased interest in obtaining reloading components at present. One company may be out of stock on a certain brand of component right now. So having more companies a member can contact, is likely to help them find the exact components they need, while allowing them to deal with vendors they can have confidence in.

Questions asked and general observations:

WHAT POWDER SHOULD I USE:

A member will say I want to load the following calibers, so please tell me what powder I want to use.

(1) This is an extremely hard question for anyone to answer, as there are simply so many excellent powders available for reloaders.

(2) I personally think to a large degree it depends on the type of projectile you are going to load. Are you going to use semi-jacketed, full metal jacketed, or lead projectiles in that caliber? Are you going to load a combination of jacketed and lead bullets for the same weapon?

(a) There is no one correct answer here. Reloaders generally tend to select and stay with a powder that has worked well for them in a particular caliber using their desired projectiles.

(b) Jacketed and semi-jacketed bullets will normally allow you to use more powder, and thus allow you to achieve higher muzzle velocities.

(c) Lead projectile tend to leave excessive leading in the barrel if driven to velocities over 1,000 fps. Not a hard MV, but a good reference point. Since lead projectiles will vary in the hardness of the lead used in their casting/manufacture, again there is not one precise answer of the MV above which excessive leading will occur.

(d) Lighter bullets can normally be driven to higher MVs than heavier bullets of the same type. Example: you will be able to load a .45acp 185gr JHP bullet to get higher MVs than you will be able to get using a 230gr JHP bullet.

I HAVE BOUGHT/WILL BUY A PROGRESSIVE PRESS. IS THERE ONE POWDER BETTER SUITED TO IT I SHOULD GET?

(1) Yes, there probably is a one better “type” of powder for progressive presses – ball powders.

(2) In years past I tended to use Bullseye and Unique powders for all of my handgun calibers. When I got my first progressive press I found they did not flow uniformly through my powder measure (they did not drop consistent charges of powder round to round).

(3) I called the company that made my press, and they suggested I use a ball powder as it would drop more consistent charges round to round. They did not suggest one powder company over another, just said use a ball powder.

(4) Companies that readily come to mind making ball powders are: Accurate Arms (Western Powders), Winchester, and Hodgdon.

(a) I am sure I have forgotten some companies here, which should not be seen as my not suggesting them. I just forgot them.

(5) Ball powders tend to be geared to specific caliber ranges and powder charges. This is also equally true of other types of powders (flake, extruded, etc.)

(a) For example, there are some ball powders that tend to be used mostly for magnum handgun calibers, while others are used mostly for less powerful calibers, target level loads.

(b) There are some that are designed primarily for high MV loads using jacketed bullets, and others more geared to lead target level loads.

(c) This is because powders have different burning rates, slow – medium – or fast.

(d) As a general rule, the faster the powder, the less you should use of it to safely stay within established pressure levels for that specific caliber and bullet type.

(e) There are simply too many factors that work together to “suggest” the best powder to use for a specific caliber and bullet type. I am not qualified to write a reloading manual, nor am I trying to do so here. But hopefully just talking about ball powder, I hope folks will better understand why it is nearly impossible to say – ok, you want to use X powder for that caliber.

(f) Remember reloading manuals - they have excellent sections that discuss powders, primers, brass, reloading steps, reloading tools, etc. Not only do they contain established loading data, but many have excellent sections on reloading components too.

HOW MANY ROUNDS CAN I EXPECT TO BE ABLE TO LOAD FROM ONE POUND OF POWDER?

It depends on the specific powder charge you are loading for that specific bullet. You will simply have to do the math for that one bullet.

(1) The basic formula is generally considered to be that 1 pound of powder equals 7000 grains of powder.
1 pound = 7000 grains of powder

(2) Select your specific powder charge, which will normally be listed in manuals as x.x grains of powder y. Divide your powder charge into 7000 grains, and this is the estimated number of rounds one pound of powder will give you for that one specific round.

(a) If you load more than one caliber or even more than one type of bullet type within the same caliber, once you change the specific powder charge, remember that your rounds per pound answer has just changed.

(b) If you have to order powder, remember there will be some time delay before it is received. If you are trying to finish up a specific reloading project, try to keep track of the powder you are using, and order more in time to get you shipment before you have run out.

DO I REALLY NEED A RELOADING MANUAL, AND IF SO WHICH ONE SHOULD I BUY?

Yes, you absolutely need to use a reloading manual. Actually I always suggest to folks to use at least two manuals when working up and new caliber to load. Three different manuals to me are even better. I personally own far more than 3 different brands of manuals.

(1) Reloading manuals are updated by various producers, and given volumes or editions numbers. Always try to find the most recent manual by that company, as it will include the most current reloading data they possess.

(2) Reloading manuals tend to be written by two different groups of companies: manufacturers of bullets and reloading equipment, and powder companies. There are some tendencies I have noticed over the years, but this is certainly not written in stone.

(3) Bullet and equipment company manuals tend to offer a wider range of powders in their data. They test a variety of brands of powders when creating data for use with their bullets. They normally list the various powders they feel produce the most consistent results using their component.

(a) Examples: Lee, Hornady, Sierra

(4) Powder company manuals tend to offer loading data using only their brand of powder.

(a) Examples: Accurate Arms (Western Powders), Hodgdon, Speer*.

(*) In previous volumes, Speer tended to list a variety of powders, since they were a bullet company. Now the parent company that owns Speer bullets, also owns Alliant Powders (Bullseye, Unique, et al). Customer service has told me that starting with volume 14, Speer manuals will list only Alliant powders in their data, so they will be more like a powder company.

(5) Some manuals tend to gear themselves more to one specific type of bullet over others. For example, Lyman offers many different bullet molds and related equipment for those who wish to cast their own lead bullets. Because of that, at least in the past, the Lyman Reloading Manuals have tended to list loading data heavily geared to lead projectiles. If you will load primarily lead projectiles, I would suggest you make the latest Lyman manual one of your reference books.

(6) When using data from any manual, you must pay attention to the bullet types that specific data applies to.

(a) Data for jacketed or semi-jacketed projectiles can normally be driven to higher MVs without leading issues.

(b) Data for lead projectiles will be reduced to avoid excessive leading.

(c) Note not only the bullet weight but also the bullet type that data was created for.

(7) You may not find the specific bullet you want to use listed in the data.

(a) Example: I want to load a 250gr lead round nose flat point bullet (lead RNFP, or LRNFP – manuals use abbreviations heavily. Find the section that explains these abbreviations and refer to them when in doubt.) The manual lists data for the 255gr LRNFP, but not the 250gr.

(b) You can safely use the heavier data, as you will not create pressure issues, if the bullet weight is lighter but close in weight.

(c) You may not be able to use data for lighter bullets with a heavier bullet, especially if you are using a maximum load.

(d) When there is a data issue, check other manuals for the bullet you want to load.

WHAT ARE HAZMAT FEES (HAZARDOUS MATERIALS FEES) AND IS THIS JUST A GIMMICK TO GET MORE MONEY FROM ME?

Hazmat fees are a federal requirement, and not a trick for a vendor to get more money out of you. Companies are required to charge a hazmat fee ($20.00) whenever your order includes either primers or powder, as these are considered explosive materials.

(a) Hazmat items must be shipped via ground transportation only, for safety reasons. So it does cost more to ship them.

(b) Hazmat fees do not attach to loaded ammunition, only powder and primers.

(c) I have heard that primers and powder are not suppose to be shipped together in the same box, so a separate hazmat fee would apply for each component. However, I have seen some ads that stated they could ship them together, so only one hazmat ($20.00) charge would apply to your orders. So if you only pay one fee with a specific company, then just feel you got a better deal I reckon.

(d) It is your money you are about to spend with a specific company. Do not be afraid to ask questions before you place your order. That way you do not get surprised when your credit card is charged a specific amount.

(e) Depending on specific company policies, if you order both primers and powders, you may be charged one, two, or even more hazmat fees. Ask so you will know ahead of time. There are reasons for how many hazmat fees a company must charge you, but you need to ask so you know what to expect.

(see part 2 for additional information)

twoguns